Omkareshwar in Madhya Pradesh

Omkareshwar, a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is one of the 12 revered Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva. It is on an island called Mandhata or Shivapuri in the Narmada river. The shape of the island is said to be like the ॐ symbol.

The prominent white shikhara that now soars above the Shree Omkar Mandhata temple is a relatively new addition to the dense cluster of buildings. Below it, the ornate pillars in the assembly hall, or mandapa, are more representative of the temple's antiquity.

We reached Omkareshwar on the holiest of holy days dedicated to Lord Shiva – Mahashivratri hence did not visit the temple for darshan as the crowds were phenomenal. We managed to get decent accomodation about 20kms away and visited Omkareshwar next morning. The crowds had thinned but still were enough to keep us satisfied with paying our respects from a distance.

Will take you on a photowalk through the streets of Omkareshwar leading to the temple and its surroundings to give you a glimpse of the festive atmosphere that was there.

Street cafes.

The ghat outside the temple on the banks of Narmada river.

The bridge to cross the river and go to the temple.

A sadhu on the banks of Narmada river across the temple.

Hot sev being mixed with poha for breakfast

Hot jalebis being fried

The devotees!

All God's creations welcome!

Parking lot for bikes

Hot pakodas being fried.

Getting there:

Air : The Airports closest to Omkareshwar are at Indore (77 km) and Ujjain (133 km).

Rail : Nearest Railway Station is at Omkareshwar Road (12 km) on the Ratlam-Khandwa section of the Western Railway which is not a mainline. The other nearest railway station connected to Delhi and Mumbai is at Indore (77 km).

Road : Omkareshwar is connected to major towns and cities of Madhya Pradesh. There are regular bus services from Ujjain (133 km), Indore (77 km), Khandwa (61 km.) and Omkareshwar Road (12 km). 

Grishneshwar

Grishneshwar Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas and a must visit for all Lord Shiva devotees. It is located just ½ km from Ellora Caves and has some interesting legends. One of them is about how, while playing chess, Lord Shiva lost to Parvati and on a whim, he went south to the forest of Kamyavana. Parvati followed and wooed him resulting in the two deciding to stay there for a few days.

One day Parvati was thirsty and there was no water nearby so Shiva pierced the earth with his trident and created a lake. This lake came to be known as Shivalay. The legend continues with Parvati preparing sindur. Sindur is a paste made from vermilion powder, which married women apply in the hair parting on their forehead, to indicate that they are married. As Parvati was rubbing the vermilion powder and water with her thumb, the vermilion turned into a lingam and a great light appeared in it. Parvati installed the lingam there and called it Grishneshwar, because it was created by “grishna” or friction of her thumb.

Another legend is from Shivapurana, which narrates a tale about a Brahmin named Sudharm and his wife Sudeha who lived in Devagiri. They lived happily but for the fact that they were childless. Sudeha blamed herself for this and to ensure that her husband’s lineage continued, she got her sister Ghushma married to Sudharm. She also instructed Ghushma to make 101 lingams, worship them at Grishneshwar and then immerse them in the Shivalay Lake. Soon, with the blessings of Shiva, a boy was born to Ghushma after which Sudeha felt neglected, resulting in jealousy and a murder most foul. She killed Ghushma’s son and threw him in the lake. When his wife awoke, she saw that instead of her husband there was a blood stained sheet and in a panic went and informed Ghushma, her mother in law, who was busy praying and so did not respond and continued with her daily rituals. When she went to immerse the lingams, she saw her son emerge from the lake. Then Shiva appeared before her and told her that Sudeha had killed her son. Ghushma requested Shiva to forgive her sister. Pleased with her devotion and generosity, Shiva offered her a boon. Ghushma requested Shiva to eternally reside there so that she could worship him up close. Shiva agreed and decreed that the shrine be named Ghushmeshwar. Hence, the temple is known by both the names ‘Grishneshwar’ and ‘Ghushmeshwar’.

The temple looks as if it is built with redstone. As per the ‘Archaeological Survey of India’, quote, “The Ellora caves are hewn out of the volcanic basaltic formation of Maharashtra, known as ‘Deccan Trap’, the term trap being of Scandinavian origin representing the step like formation of the volcanic deposits. These channels, due to overheating, have a characteristic brownish red colour. Similar rock was used in the construction of the Grishneshwar Temple nearby and also utilised for the flooring of the pathways at Bibi-ka-Maqbara.” Unquote.

There are carvings all over the temple and the pillars within.

To enter the sanctum sanctorum the males have to be topless. Photography in the sanctum is prohibited.

The langurs have a free run outside the temple. Was fun watching and clicking them.

The Grishneshwar temple was re-constructed by Maloji Raje Bhosale of Verul, (grandfather of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj) in the 16th century. His Samadhi is outside the temple.

Temple Timings Open 5.30 am - 9.30 pm

During Shravan (Aug-Sep): 3 am - 11 pm