Tapola - the stress buster.

If the monsoons in the city (Mumbai-300kms away)/Pune-150kms away) are getting on your nerves with all the flooding, building crashes, road accidents, road cave-ins and tree falls, don’t despair. Just hop on to your favourite mode of transport and get up to Mahabaleshwar and then down to Tapola to enjoy the true beauty of nature in the rains. There are plenty of agro tourism homestays out there that will help you unwind and awaken the poet, romantic, playwright, storyteller or maybe assist you to meditate, introspect and commune with nature in all its glory.

Last weekend we, a group of friends, drove down to Tapola and had the time of our lives. We stayed

in a River view Agro Tourism homestay and could view the gently flowing Koyna river rippling with raindrops and then calming down, and it had a muddy look to show how much of fun it had rolling 

down the hills.

One afternoon we requested the homestay to get us fish from the river for lunch. They obliged and fried and curried the fish. It was very tasty and as fresh as it can be.

If you want to go boating or kayaking or just plain cruising on the river, there is a boat club which conducts all these activities for a reasonable cost in downtown Tapola. After that if you wish you can spend some time sipping a beer or two in the local bar for local flavour. You will be pleased with all the creature comforts and consider yourself blessed if you don’t have a BSNL mobile connection as that is the only one that works in Tapola. And if the need arises to make an urgent telephone call, the locals are very helpful and lend you their mobile phone to assist you make that important call.

But of course, unless you plan to stay there and write a book or a screenplay or maybe have your easel and paints with you, after a couple of nights you want to get back to the urban buzz.

On the return, near Panchgani, there is this beautiful one street village Bhilar where almost all the 

houses lining the street are libraries and each house specialises in a specific category of books like History, Science, Politics, Fiction, autobiographies and the like. But all the books are in Marathi and anyone can drop in and browse/read to their hearts’ content. Most of these house have some beautiful

murals on their walls too. Hence painting and reading seems to be the mainstay in Bhilar. We visited

the house that had fiction and browsed around on our return to Mumbai.

And of course don’t miss visiting MAPRO garden which has a great variety of crushes, juices, jams and the like to carry sweet memories home.

If you are a foodie the ‘Jai Bhavani’ restaurant in Katraj is a must visit for its yummy delicious

 mutton and Jowar Bhakri, a typical Maharashtrian meal followed by solkadi as a digestive. After this

 meal just ensure you don’t drive/ride immediately as it does tend to make you drowsy with satiation.

Devrukh - The home of Hapus (King of mangoes)

The monsoons wer­e about to step in and kill the heat and the mango season was ending too. Like a good omen The Road Trippers Club announced a weekend drive to Devrukh in Ratnagiri – the home of the world famous Hapoos or Alphonso mango.  So without further ado we joined in! ­­

A convoy of 4 cars started from Mumbai around 7 in the morning. The weather was pleasant for about an hour or so after which it started getting hotter! The drive along NH17 was scenic and the roads under the scalpel for widening made it easier for us to slow down and enjoy the scenery. It was the first time that I saw paver blocks in parts on a highway which further helped us sway along! But despite the road conditions we managed to cruise along at a decent rate and had our first halt for breakfast in a restaurant on the highway. It was time to meet up with our 5^th road tripping vehicle which joined us there. It was also a good time to know the fellow road trippers slightly better as most of us were meeting each other for the 1^st time!

The time was ripe for a group selfie too!

We trundled along after a good breakfast, on the ‘highway’ as the sun beat down upon us mercilessly right upto Chiplun for lunch where were joined by the 6^th vehicle.

The Surmai thali in Abhishek restaurant in Chiplun was heavenly! I wouldn’t mind going all the way to Chiplun just for this meal! For my review of this restaurant click here.

Fortunately the road conditions did not improve much after Chiplun too, for if they had, we would have fallen asleep at the wheel after the sumptuous meal.

As we neared Ratnagiri the sky darkened menacingly and lit up with streaks of lightning followed by

Picture courtesy - Chitra Amembal

thunderous claps that had us awestruck at nature’s drama. And then it poured relentlessly for a few minutes to cool down the ambient temperatures by at least about 7 to 8 degrees. Hence it was in a very pleasant and cool state of mind that we reached our destination O’Nest in Devrukh, Ratnagiri in 

the evening and were welcomed by a yummy drink of ‘Aam panna’ (a delicious concoction of raw mango and spices).

We (my wife and me) were lucky to be allotted the room in the tree house. Very beautifully 

constructed and the interiors were elegant too. The climb up seemed a bit dicey the 1^st time but after a couple of times of going up and down it was a breeze. An airconditioned room with a bathroom attached with all the modern amenities on a tree house! How much more luxurious can it get?

The evening was reserved for a jaunt to the farm which had mango, jackfruit and cashew trees apart

Yes this is a massive mushroom!

from others. We were taken there, walking along the village path, with the occasional autorickshaw passing by and a lot of natural beauty on display. The walk in the farm was educative and we were 

encouraged to climb mango trees to pluck a few. To top it all, they brought tea and pakodas for us and it 

was a veritable picnic in the farm! A great time was had by all.

It was during our dinner that we managed to get to know each other much better after a round of self-introductions. Road tripping really makes you less judgemental. After a sumptuous dinner of fish, chicken and vegetables we retired for a well-earned rest.

Next morning we had a yummy breakfast of Poha, eggs and bread in their restaurant O’Leaf while the home grown mangoes were delicately packed for all of us to take back home and relive the taste of the wonderful weekend in Devrukh, Ratnagiri. For my review of this homestay please click here.

The return drive was uneventful as we decided to take the national highway which was faster but

boring as compared to the scenic route that we had taken inbound, except for the back roads that led 

to the national highway and the delicious lunch in Sangli enroute at Pancham’s Naivedya. For my review of this restaurant please click here.

A piece of Heaven - Pahalgam, Kashmir - Part 3 (Concluded)

After the hectic adventurous time in Gulmarg, Pahalgam was to be a laidback sightseeing trip. At this point, I would like to inform all tourists visiting these places by public transport that you will have to take local taxis or horses for sightseeing (done to promote local livelihood). So after checking in The Regency Hotel in Pahalgam which is situated in a very scenic locale with a river running by, we set

out for a general walk around the market place. This was the time to shop for shawls, stoles, dry fruits and dresses for the ladies to be kept or gifted.

Two guys from our group decided to take a horse ride to ‘Mini Switzerland’. These horses and taxis 

are available in the parking lot, which is the point where the taxis/vans/buses that you have reached the destination in, have to be parked, and you­­ take local transport.

After a couple of hours of gallivanting around town we returned to the hotel and rested as we had scheduled the sightseeing tour for the next day.

Our 1^st point to visit was the Aru valley. This place is a page out of a fairy tale! The tiny bridges over

the now dry river against a backdrop of magnificent snow-capped mountains and the feeling of being hugged by nature is amazing.

Our next stop was the Betaab valley. This valley got its name after the famous Hindi movie ‘Betaab’ was filmed here. Betaab Valley lies between the two Himalayan Ranges – Pir Panjal and Zanskar. 

There is an entrance fee of Rs.100/- to enter the vast landscaped gardens inside. We skipped that and instead spent time taking pictures along the Lidder river which was flowing past and had some 

yummy omelettes and rotis and Maggi noodles in the shack by the river. Washed it down with the famous Kashmiri Kahwa (Kahwah is a traditional green tea preparation consumed in Afghanistan, northern Pakistan, some regions of Central Asia and, in northern India especially in Kashmir Valley.)

After this we moved on to Chandanwadi which is the starting point for the Amarnath yatra. There 

was still some snow lying around and it offered a lot of photo-ops which we gratefully accepted and called it a day.

We were done with Pahalgam and had to carry on to Sonmarg the next day. The highlight of this

journey to Sonmarg was the sumptuously delicious meat feast – Wazwan, in Pampore, organised specially for us by ScoutMyTrip.  Wazwan is a multi-course meal in Kashmiri cuisine, the preparation of which is considered an art and a point of pride in Kashmiri culture and identity. Almost all the dishes are meat-based using lamb or chicken with a few vegetarian dishes. It is popular throughout Kashmir. As we approached Pampore, the weather Gods decided we had enough of good weather and it started raining leading to a drastic drop in temperature.

Plenty of mustard fields enroute.

By the time we reached Sonmarg, the gloomy weather dampened our enthusiasm and we had barely checked into the Glacier Heights Hotel and there was a power failure.  Not a very good sign as the Hotel Generator could not support room heaters in all the rooms along with the electrical blankets. 

Hotel Glacier Heights, Sonmarg.

But the Kashmiri hosts did not let us down. In the restaurant they gave us a corner where they brought in a huge heater supported by a LPG cylinder and we sat around it nursing our drinks and snacking on yummy chicken tikkas and veg. pakodas, pretending the heater was a bonfire. In the ensuing discussion it was decided that we get back to Srinagar the next day as the weather prediction for the next day too was not favourable and we were not inclined to spend our time in the cold rooms. Our organisers ScoutMyTrip were told about our decision and they gallantly offered to accommodate us in Srinagar in lieu of Sonmarg the next day despite this being a case of force majeure.

So we headed back to Srinagar and spent a pleasant evening in Pride Inn Hotel, glowing in the aftermath of the beauty that is Kashmir and Kashmiris.

The day after we flew back to Mumbai – back to base with plenty of memories to last a lifetime.

In conclusion a few observations:

All over Kashmir, in all the hotels, the buffet breakfast was Upma, Poha, Parathas and Eggs (boiled or Omelette).

The locals are fed up of politicians across the board. They are trapped in between the devil and the deep sea. If they inform the Indian Army of the hideouts of militants they will be killed by the militants and if they don't inform, they face the wrath of the Army.

The tourists are welcomed with a lot of love. The locals are warm hearted, extremely hospitable and will go to any lengths to make the guest comfortable giving credence to the phrase ‘Athithi Deva Bhavo’ - Guest is God.
For the vegetarians, there are plenty of Vaishno dhabas/restaurants all over the place, serving excellent vegetarian food. So no worries.

Despite having read in the print media and seen on the Television, we did not witness a single incident of violence during our stay and travels there.

The only way to bring about total peace in Kashmir is to overrun it by tourists. So guys pack your bags and get a move on! Kashmir is waiting!

A piece of heaven - Gulmarg, Kashmir - Part 2

We had been receiving messages and calls from well wishers back home telling us about the worsening tensions in Kashmir and telling us to return home. We just smiled and got onto the bus to go to Gulmarg, an uneventful journey that took us through some beautiful landscapes and enthralled us with its beauty.

Our driver cum guide Shabbir was a great guy, full of humour and wanting to ensure our comfort at all times.

Enroute we stopped at Tangmarg, about 12kms before Gulmarg, to rent snow boots and a waterproof warm coat so that we could participate in all the snowy activities in Gulmarg. 

Gulmarg lies in a cup shaped valley in the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas, at an altitude of 2,650 m (8,694 ft) and is the centre for skiing, sledging and snowmobiling. It was in Tangmarg that we 

connected with Umar – our guardian angel. He was so amazing that he created an invisible tunnel and took us through all the activities possible in Gulmarg. We did not break a sweat through any of it. It

 was only later that I learnt that he was the Snowmobile champion of the country for 3 consecutive years and he acts as a tourism guide in his spare time. An amazing chap! If you are planning to visit Gulmarg and need help, mail me for his contact details. You will not regret it.

While we were completing our check in process at Mama Palace hotel in Gulmarg, Umar got busy in getting our tickets for the Gondola ride and let me tell you it is essential that you have someone in the know to get it done, as we realised once we reach the Gondola boarding point where chaos reigned with ‘waiting for tickets to be bought’ passengers queued up blocking the way for ticket holding passengers! Thankfully we soon were in the gondola, riding up the snowy slopes of the Himalayas. 

Built by the French company Pomagalski, the Gulmarg Gondola is one of the highest in the world reaching 3,979 metres. The two-stage ropeway ferries people between Gulmarg and a shoulder of nearby Apharwat Peak (4,200 metres/13,800 ft). The first stage transfers from Gulmarg at 2,600 

metres (8,500 ft) to Kongdoori at 3,080 metres (10,100 ft). The second stage takes passengers to a height of 3,950 metres (12,960 ft) on the Apharwat Peak 4,200 metres (13,800 ft).

 Once on the Apharwat peak, we went tandem skiing and sledging. It was fun despite the altitude drying out our mouths. Trudging in the snow too was a new experience for us apart from skiing. 

Once done we rode down to the 1^st stage ‘Kongdoori’ where we had a delicious lunch in ‘Kongposh’ restaurant and headed for the ride on snowmobiles. Yet another 1^st time for all of us. We rode pillion

and the riders were good enough to let some of us to try riding it ourselves albeit with the instructor riding pillion and encouraging us all the way!

Next day was reserved for some more adventure but this time offroading around Gulmarg on the 

ATVs (All Terrain Vehicles). This too was fun and here again they let those of us who wished to ride, try it out too.

It was a fun 2 days of adventure in Gulmarg and now it was time to move on to Pahalgam.

A piece of heaven - Kashmir – Part 1

A Farsi Couplet by Amir Khusro

Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.

Translated, it means

If there is a paradise on earth,
it is this, it is this, it is this

We, a group of 14 friends, having spent just over a week in Kashmir, have no doubt that Kashmir is, indeed, a piece of heaven on earth, where we experienced the warmth of brotherhood and unparalleled hospitality. We did not witness a single incident of violence all the time that we spent there despite what is portrayed in the media. The trip was wonderfully organised for us by ScoutMyTrip who arranged for all our transportation and accommodation at a very reasonable cost.

On arrival in Srinagar airport, we were met by the local tour guide and transported to our beautiful houseboats in the Dal Lake. After the 30+ C temperature of Mumbai, the 18C was a welcome relief. Dal is a lake in Srinagar (Dal Lake is a misnomer as Dal in Kashmiri means lake). The lake covers an area of 18 square kilometres with an average depth of 4.7 feet and a maximum of 20 feet.

After dumping our luggage in our rooms in the houseboat, we freshened up and were taken out on a

shikara ride of the Dal lake along the shops selling local handicrafts. The fun part was that while

sailing in the shikaras, we had sales pitches from shikaras alongside selling jewellery, coats and caps apart from snacks and soft drinks!

On our return to our houseboats, as we were getting ready for a sumptuous dinner, there came a shikara 

with a mobile barbecue who dished up some yummy kababs. This indeed was an unique experience for us!

Next day we set out for a tour of the beautiful gardens in Srinagar. The first one was the Chashme 

Shahi gardens built around a spring, in 1632 A.D. by Ali Mardan Khan, Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s Governor. It was the Emperor’s gift for his elder son Prince Dara Shikoh.

Our next stop was the Jawaharlal Nehru Botanical Gardens that was set up in 1969 in memory of our 1^st Prime Minister who was fond of roses. This garden has a collection of about 150,00 ornamental 

plants apart from a huge collection of oak varieties. It also has a rare collection of Kashmiri tropical plants.

And then came the show stopper – the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip gardens! It is the largest tulip 

garden in Asia spread over an area of about 30 hectares.  The garden was opened in 2007 with the aim to boost floriculture and tourism in Kashmir Valley. It is a feast for the eyes! BSNL offers free wifi there to enable visitors to spread the beauty online! After revelling in the beauty, we had some 

some Kashmiri bread with Kahwa (Kashmiri tea) brewed in Samovars.

Next stop was Nishat Bagh, a terraced Mughal garden, built in 1633 by Asif Khan the elder brother 

of Noor Jahan. It is spread over 46 acres and overlooks the Dal Lake.

We missed out on the Shalimar Bagh, considered one of the biggest Mughal gardens. The Bagh was built by Mughal Emperor Jahangir for his wife Noor Jahan, in 1619.

The untimely rains prevented us from any further forays into the beautiful Baghs and drove us back to our houseboats.

This marked the end of our brief affair with Srinagar as next morning we were off to Gulmarg.

For more pictures visit my Instagram account.